What is Calais-Caudry lace and why does it matter
Calais-Caudry lace is a protected designation, like champagne or Roquefort. It can only be made in the Calais and Caudry region of northern France, on Leavers looms that have not changed significantly since the early nineteenth century. The designation was registered with the European Union in 2017. Understanding what it is helps explain why lace lingerie made from it behaves differently from most of what you find in shops.
How the Leavers loom works
A Leavers loom interlocks threads by twisting them around each other rather than knitting or weaving them. The process is slow: a single loom can produce about one metre of lace per hour. The result is a structure where each thread is mechanically locked in place, which means the lace does not run or unravel when cut, and it holds its shape through repeated washing.
Raschel lace, by contrast, is made on a warp-knitting machine that can produce the same metre in a few minutes. The threads are looped rather than interlocked, which gives the lace more stretch but also makes it more prone to distortion over time.
What this means for a bra
In a bra cup, dimensional stability matters. A lace that stretches unevenly will distort the cup shape after a few washes, pulling the underwire out of position or creating a gap at the top of the cup. Calais-Caudry lace holds its cut shape because the threads are locked. A bra made from it will look the same after thirty washes as it did on the first wear, provided it is washed correctly.
The hand of the lace is also different. Calais-Caudry lace has a slight firmness that reads as structure without being stiff. It sits against the skin rather than clinging to it.
Caring for Calais-Caudry lace at home
Hand-wash in water no warmer than 30 degrees Celsius. Use a pH-neutral detergent, not a standard laundry liquid, which is too alkaline for the cotton threads in the lace. Do not wring. Press gently in a towel and lay flat to dry. Store flat or rolled, not folded, to avoid a permanent crease in the lace pattern.
We have used Calais-Caudry lace since the first collection in 2018 and have not found a substitute that behaves the same way on the body. It is the single most important material decision we make each season.